Flesh & Buns, Covent Garden

On paper, Flesh & Buns is an Izakaya (a casual Japanese drinking joint). In reality, food is the focus, with its open kitchen and brilliantly original signature dish.

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The Bone Daddies crew opened Flesh & Buns a few weeks ago. It sounded like my kind of restaurant, so I popped along for lunch last Friday and was impressed from the start. Firstly, I could book, and secondly, the Manager took my friend’s nut allergy very seriously, even producing her own ‘nut free’ menu.

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Our waitress was equally helpful, enthusiastically taking us through the menu without making us feel harassed. She explained how most dishes should be shared, even the ‘flesh & buns’ we couldn’t wait to get our hands on.

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As sustenance, we munched on warm, salted Edaname (£3.50) and wonderful Fried Squid from the list of hot ‘small dishes’ (£6.50). The squid crunched in our mouths like popcorn, exposing tender, peppery meat, livened up with a squeeze of lime.

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The ‘flesh & buns’ came in four parts. Salmon Teriyaki (our choice of ‘flesh’ at £13), two buns each, a bowl of salad and a dish of sauce.

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We were shown how to flake the glistening salmon, before adding it to the fluffy bun with a strip of cucumber, lettuce and a drizzle of sauce.

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I could have eaten the lot, but might have felt differently if we’d ordered heavy Braised Pork Belly or Flat Iron Steak. Either way, it was a delightful sandwich of flavour, with sweet, tender meat and fresh salad bits.

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Our waitress was also a mind reader, producing two hot towels just as I noticed how fishy my hands smelt. Freshening up gave us time to decide on dessert – S’More to share (£8).

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The Flesh & Buns slogan should be ‘get your hands dirty’ (not that that’s a bad thing). We toasted our marshmallows over a naked flame, before making a biscuit sandwich, complete with bright green miso chocolate and our lovely, melted marshmallow.

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Flesh & Buns gets my vote and a LLE Rating of 8.5 / 10. I had to stop myself going again that evening (it seemed excessive), but I’ll be back soon to devour more of them flesh & buns.

Flesh & Buns, 41 Earlham St, London WC2H 9LX

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One response to “Flesh & Buns, Covent Garden

  1. Sounds excellent – I will give it a go, on my return from Tuscany!

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