Reports confirm that 2012 was the year of the chicken. Well, certainly for London restaurants. Tramshed, Chicken Shop, Chooks and Wishbone all paid homage to the small, plump bird and the trend seems set to stay in 2013 – just last night, the Evening Standard dedicated an article to the retro Chicken Kiev revival. It’s a wonder how that didn’t make the front page.
Now, please don’t think I’m complaining about this. I do love chicken. So now I’m now going to tell you about Wishbone – a relatively new Brixton Village eaterie, devoted entirely to FRIED CHICKEN.
Unlike most fried chicken joints, Wishbone is smart, clean and reminiscent of an American diner with its checked flooring, long wooden bar and bright pop art wall paint.
The birds themselves are all Cotswold Whites, which as the menu says, are free range, slow growing and naturally reared (a tremendous looking chook wouldn’t you say?).
You can choose to eat the wings, thighs or the whole thing. Whatever takes your fancy. For sides, there is everything from the healthy(ish) slaw and black eyed pea salad, to the button loosening fries and deep fried mac ‘n’ cheese.
Out of a few choices, we went for Korean wings double fried with daikon and fermented chilli, along with Thai thighs dressed in tamarind, mints, chilli and shallots. That, and a portion of crunchy, non greasy, slaw.
The deboned thighs tasted wonderfully fresh and fragrant, making us question how unhealthy fried chicken really is. As for the wings, each morsel was covered in a perfectly crisp spiced crumb, which kept the meat juicy and piping hot. Both very different, but both exactly what you’d want from fried chicken.
The food, tip and a couple of freshly squeezed orange juices came to less than a tenner each. Now if that’s not finger lickin’ good, I don’t know what is, so Wishbone gets a LLE Rating of 8/10.
Wishbone, Unit 12 Market Row, Brixton Market, London SW9 8BR