In Paris for a romantic weekend with The Boyfriend…and six others. Not wanting to succumb to an expensive, touristy brasserie, The Boyfriend pulled in a last minute favour with Michael Greenwold – c0-owner of Roseval, Paris’ hottest new restaurant.
Inside Roseval we found bare, white washed walls, exposed beams, wooden tables and lots of Parisians enjoying food from an ever changing menu created by Michael and his co-chef/owner, Simone Tondo.
The menu is set, but the price depends on how much you have. E.g.we were facing an astonishingly reasonable 40€ for four courses, 47€ with cheese and 77€ with matching wines picked by Columbian sommelier Erika Biswell.
We went for everything but the wine, starting with Couteau Poireau Citron – an ingenious dish of razor clam, Scottish leek and an egg yolk puree.
Each element demanded attention. The razor clam tasted of the ocean, the leek was sweet and buttery, and the creamy egg yolk puree was one of the most interesting things I’ve tried in a long time.
Moving on, Cabillaud Aubergine Fleur de Courgette (cod with courgette flowers on an aubergine puree) melted in the mouth. The cod was like butter, contrasting brilliantly with the crispy courgettes.
Agneau de Lait Asperges Boutargue (milk fed lamb with asparagus) was just as delightful. The crispy fat surrounding the meat gave it a wonderful tenderness, which the asparagus brought freshness to. The accompanying sauces were expertly made, but the darker of the two was a little bitter for my palate.
We couldn’t resist the creamy French cheese, but with dessert still to come, shared a plate between two. Lemon Pannacotta followed – a sublime surprise that got us in the mood for pudding.
Dessert was Cheesecake Peche Sauge – twice baked cheesecake with peach and sage. Diverse until the end, the cheesecake was a delicious mixture of sweet and savoury. Fantastique!
Roseval should be booked well before you board the Eurostar. It’s the perfect combination of laid back French sophistication and food that aims (and manages) to excite. All hail Roseval.
Roseval, Rue d’Eupatoria, Paris