On Saturday, I had dinner under a formaldehyde cow with a cockerel on its back. Now there’s a sentence I never thought I’d say.
Some of you will know what I’m talking about. For those that don’t, I was in Mark Hix’s restaurant Tramshed – the one with Damien Hirst’s ‘Cock and Bull’ sculpture suspended from the ceiling.
The sculpture is the perfect symbol for Tramshed – the restaurant specialises in chicken and steak. That, and a couple of veggie options, some ‘seasonal sharing starters’ and puddings you’ll be too full for.
I was with two carnivores and a pescetarian, so it was Swainson House Farm roast chicken for the meat-eaters and fish fingers with mushy peas for the veggie. The chicken was presented with its legs akimbo, sitting in a bowl of fries. Our friendly waitress tore off the legs before giving us the knife to carve the succulent, juicy meat with dangerously tasty skin.
The best part were the fries that sat beneath the chicken. Each piece of potatoey goodness was drunk with chicken juice, but still managed to stay crispy. God knows how many I ate.
On the side, we had sweet, lightly battered onion rings, a plate of chunky, sauteed field mushrooms and a salad with Roquefort and hazelnuts. Our waitress insisted on yet more fries. I wasn’t complaining, but appreciated not being charged for extras.
All sides came in large and small portions. We went for large (naturally), which I’d recommend as they weren’t all that generous…
Next to me sat N’s fish fingers with mushy peas, which she happily chomped on as we picked at our chicken carcass. The fish was light and moist, with a crunchy, golden crumb. The peas tasted like they were freshly picked from the garden, delicately flavoured with mint.
We were stuffed, but couldn’t resist salted caramel fondue for dessert. Pieces of fluffy doughnut, creamy marshmallow and, eventually, our spoons were dunked into melted caramel. Pieces of fruit would have been less sickly, but it was a fitting end to our indulgent meal.
My jaw dropped when I saw the bill. With two bottles of wine, it was only £32 per person with tip. Amazing given the quality of food, buzzing atmosphere and amazing setting. I was also impressed by the speed of service, which wasn’t pushy, but made the two hour sitting manageable.
Next time I’ll try the steak, perhaps on a Monday when you can bring your own booze. Until then, Tramshed gets a very worthy LLE Rating of 8/10.
Tramshed, 32 Rivington Street, London EC2A 3EQ