Tonkotsu, Soho

Saturday. 5.45pm. Soho. Queues were already forming outside London’s most popular restaurants. Even Herman Ze German felt full.

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We were hungry and time was precious. Not wanting to stand in the cold, we chose Tonkotsu – a Ramen restaurant with a thirty minute wait beneath a large, energy wasting turbo heater.

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Inside, the music was pumping and steam was bellowing from the open Ramen bar. We shared a long, wooden table and speedily ordered a plate of hot, salted edamame (£3.50) and homemade Prawn Gyoza (£5). The latter had a lovely flavour, but weren’t a patch on Mama Lan’s creations.

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Ramen wise, I chose Shimeji, Shiitake & Miso (£9) with an unhealthy added portion of pork . The sauce was rich, with half a semi-hard boiled egg, thick, silky noodles, mushrooms, bean sprouts, bamboo shoots and white, juicy meat.

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I had a flashback to Bone Daddies. The flavour was there, but my bottomless pit of a stomach couldn’t conquer it. I found the sauce too salty, too thick, too rich. I couldn’t handle it again – something my friends agreed on.

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Paying took forever; a stressful process made worse by our desperate need for fresh air. The staff were a friendly bunch, but my word they were slow.

Tonkotsu gets a LLE Rating of 5/10. I’d rather go to Koya for lighter noodles, delicate flavours and a more relaxed atmosphere.

Tonkotsu, 63 Dean Street, London W1D 4QG

One response to “Tonkotsu, Soho

  1. One of your lowest scores! I will give it a miss.

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